Summary: Options provide safe, user-friendly edges to direct golf car traffic.
Golf cart traffic must be kept away from turf or dangerous slopes. A formed or constructed edge will keep traffic on paved surfaces.
The best paving edge ties into the bordering grade. For example, when constructing a cart path next to a tee, the top of the edging should be the beginning of the transition grade. The worse case involves installation of an edging without any backing grade. I’m sure you’ve seen a golf car perched on a bullnose berm installed without backing.
Edge options include the following:
- Asphalt berms: Bullnose or Cape Cod
- Granite cobble stones
- Concrete pavers
- Pressure-treated lumber.
- Steel edging.
- Sharp turf transitions.
Asphalt berms are installed directly on properly paved asphalt surfaces. The berm must sit on a proper base with an asphalt base layer installed; don’t place it directly on compacted base. After the berm is installed, the top coat is laid tight to the bottom of the berm.
A bullnose berm is a rounded extrusion, approximately 9” wide by 6” tall, formed with a berm machine. Bullnose berms are fine for parking lots, but they may cause problems on a golf course. If they aren’t imbedded into an existing grade, golf carts cannot pass over them without getting stuck.
Cape Cod berms are subtle reminders to stay on a golf cart path. Built 12” wide and 4 ½” tall, if they need to be crossed, the small rise is easy to navigate in a golf cart.
Granite cobblestones provide a classical definition to a golf cart path. Install the cobbles on 6 inches of compacted dense grade next to the asphalt path. Expose half the stone on the tall face. Mortar the gaps of the cobblestones. Install pavement to the bottom of the berm.Install a string line to insure that all stones are installed the same distance off the asphalt.
Pressure treated wood on a horizontal plane is difficult to keep level. They are subject to degradation by golfers and cart traffic Vertical pressure-treated posts are safety hazards and they should be avoided unless the adjoining edges are tied into existing slopes.
Steel edging provides a suitable barrier to landscape transitions. It’s very expensive and rust is a problem, although the weathered surface looks good after a few weeks.