Abstract: Before starting a golf course renovation project, identify irrigation system impacts. Contractors need mainline locations and elevations before starting work.

Golf course renovation planning begins by identifying all irrigation components within the proposed work limits. Superintendents know their system best, so they should manage this process. Some like to send this task to the contractor but this may result in irrigation disasters because they may not know all the specifics of your system. Identify mainline and lateral lines with hand digging or a wire tracker, available for rent from established irrigation suppliers. Continue reading »

 

Abstract: Golf greens with heavy soils usually have drainage problems that complicate turf management. Installation of drainage pipe in existing greens is an effective but expensive option.

I grew up on a golf course with poorly drained greens. After a heavy rain, high iron shots usually landed with a muffled thwack. Golf courses can improve subsurface drainage with the following procedures.

Flat Pipe: Several manufacturers offer flat drainage pipe in rolls. The pipe includes an 8” wide by 3” high HDPE corridor that looks like crushed conventional pipe. The corridor is covered with a geofabric mesh.

The flat pipe is installed wide side down on the green subgrade, not in a trench. After determining existing subgrade slopes, drainage lines are marked on the golf green. Sod is removed and numbered with chalk to insure that it is replaced in the exact location.

Next, green mix is removed down to the subgrade level. I recommend removal of all the green mix in the green core during this process, but some remove only green mix on the trench line. Complete green mix removal is expensive, but trench-only excavation may cause problems with dissimilar compaction.

The flat pipe is connected to a 4” smile drain at the low point of the green collar. The smile drain exits away from the green complex.

Fat pipe is more expensive than conventional pipe. Connecting fittings are more expensive than conventional round fittings.

Round pipe: Conventional double wall perforated HDPE pipe is used in many green renovation projects. Installed in a herringbone pattern, the pipe is placed in the green floor.  After centering the pipe in a one-foot excavation, the trench is backfilled with 3/8” pea stone.

Removing all the green mix permits accurate slope survey insuring positive draining. Many modify the green mix during this process.

Slit drains: Some superintendents install slit drains in existing greens. After removing and numbering the sod, 2” single wall perforated pipe with a geofabric envelope is installed in a 12” trench. A small trenched can do the work. Line the trench with plywood to limit green damage. The pipe is backfilled with new green mix blended with a higher percentage of sand.

I’ve seen drastic drainage improvements with this method. Skilled crews reinstall sod making trench lines invisible. Some experience trench line discoloration caused by the use of sandy green mix in the trenches.

 

Abstract: Push-up golf green construction uses native materials to provide a cheap alternative to USGA specification greens. You can’t say they don’t work because many of the finest golf greens in the world were built this way.

In the old days, operators pushed native soil into green platforms. After fine grading and seeding, the green was done. I can’t reccommend this procedure unless you have perfect soil sitting a bulldozer push away. This soil must have a sandy-loam consistency with no stones over 1/2″. Large stones make cup cutting difficult.

The cost of a typical USGA green can approach 80K. Golf courses with limited budgets save money by installing push-up style golf greens.  Let’s assume your not sitting on a mother-lode of beautiful, naturally formed green mix. The process begins with a plan. You can have someone structure a plan, or you can make your own.

Let’s assume you’ll rebuild an existing green. You’ll improve the green playability with new surrounding swales and mounding, but the existing bunkers will be untouched.

First, determine the work limits; the area of disruption caused by the green reconstruction. For example, a 5000 s.f. green will need a work area of at least 15,000 sf to allow for shaping mounds and drainage swales. Don’t limit your work area; the green will look isolated and in disharmony with the surrounding features.

Calculate the size of the green by painting, or staking, ten foot intervals around the perimeter. Find the green center, and measure the radius from the center point to each stake. Let’s assume your measurements are 45,34,46,34,54,60, 36, 39 and 44. The total is 392. Divide this number by 9, the amount radius measurements.  This number is 43.5. or the average radius.

Next, add the average radius into this formula: A (Area)=pi(3.14) x R (radius-in this case 43.5) squared (multiplied by itself. Area= 3.14 x 1892.25=5914 sf of new golf green.

Do the same to your surrounding work limits. This area measurement will help determine sod and fill quantities. Subtract the work limit area from the green area measurement to determine net surrounding area.

Use your green area calculations to determine green mix quantities.  Let’s assume you’ll install 12″ of compacted green mix. Multiply the square footage, in this case 5914, by 27 to calculate the cubic yards. The number is 219. Multiply 219 x 1.3 =284 Tons. You’ll need to multiply 284 x 1.3 to allow for compaction. Plan on acquiring 369 tons for your push up green.

Next- Push-up golf green construction-establishing.green grades

 

Summary: Many golf courses can’t afford premium materials and elaborate management teams. A golf course in Massachusetts first developed conditioning goals. After eliminating expensive details, a scheme using native materials and a few skilled golf course personnel created a successful, limited budget, golf course.

I’ve built golf courses for owners with limited budgets who want modest golf course conditions. They don’t want slick greens,  shaved tees and bentgrass fairways. They want a playable golf course that doesn’t require intensive grooming. This post will discuss one project in Massachusetts.

After site plan review and routing, a clearing contractor began work. The owner hired a professional forester to manage the tree clearing; a good investment because he identified valuable trees for harvest, reducing the clearing costs.

The owner wanted to hire a site contractor to perform bulk earthmoving. Usually done to save money,I’ve seen this fail on other projects. Site developers can’t create golf course features.  The finished project will look like a parking lot. The change orders will inflate the construction budget.

After persuasion, the owner hired a skilled golf course shaper for all golf course earthworks and construction. Having one golf course shaper permitted logical work sequencing without the conflicts created by two companies with different earthmoving philosophies.

The shaper used a D-8 to perform major earthworks procedures. His comprehension of  final golf course grades created sensible stockpile locations, making cuts and fills easier. Many golf projects suffer delays caused by poor stockpile locating.

The Owner wanted to retain stumps located in front of tee boxes. A cost saving suggestion, he relented after I explained that leaving stumps in front of a tee will save money, but they will decompose in a few years creating a safety hazard.

Grubbing, or removal of tree roots and wood waste, produced a clean topsoil ready for stockpiling. We grubbed the entire golf course playing surface knowing that the remaining woodwaste will complicate the fine grading process.

We removed about a foot of topsoil with the D-8, pushing it into locations not requiring cuts and fills. We didn’t screen any fairway or rough topsoil. After topsoil return, we removed surface stones and stray roots with a mechanical rake.

The cuts and fill were done with the D-8. The golf course shaper is a fine operator, and he created golf course shapes without water pockets. We eliminated loading and trucking costs by limiting cuts and fills to bulldozer pushes. Creative use of existing site topography limited earthmoving.

He roughed out the tees and greens with the D-8. The shaper planned his earthworks well. He shaped final tee, green, and bunker shapes with a small bulldozer and an excavator.

He built tees with native topsoil saving the expense of purchasing, rehandling, and installing custom blended tee mix. We installed fifty feet of drain tile in each tee. It cost about one-hundred dollars; cheap insurance from drainage problems.  We screened the tee-top topsoil to remove rocks because we didn’t want golfers breaking wooden golf tees. We laser-graded the tee top, another important construction detail.

We plated bunkers with with screened topsoil. We were fortunate to find cheap, locally available bunker sand. Intensive compaction during construction and loaming insured that the seeded surfaces wouldn’t wash out. We added bunker drainage; this is another inexpensive detail that insures immediate play after heavy rain.

Green construction included standard herring bone drainage tile with a pea-stone backfill. We manufactured our own green mix with on-site loam mixed with sand excavated from a pond location. The ratio of 70% sand and 30% topsoil performs well.

An irrigation vendor designed the irrigation system without charge.  His in-house designer created a sensible system on a site plan provided by the owner. We purchased all  irrigation components from his company. The irrigation vendor assisted during the installation process.

We seeded the tee tops with low-cut bluegrass. The bunkers faces and tee surrounds were seeded with a bluegrass and fescue mix. We added a small quantity of annual rye for quick germination.

The Penncross greens provide durability to this public golf course. This course will never see extreme putting speeds.

We built the golf course for half the cost of a typical project. Abundant on-site materials created the opportunity to manufacture tee and green mixes that saved money. Lab testing insured agronomic viability.

The owner hired a grow-in superintendent with the following job description: ” You’ll work seven days a week with rainy days off.” The grow-in went well, and after a few months, the course opened for limited play. The course will never host the U.S. Open and that’s how the owner and his customers want it.

 

Summary: A description of a typical golf green reconstruction in Massachusetts.

I’ve had a few inquiries about the scope and cost of green reconstructions in New England.

The scope involves:

  • Collection of survey data with a total station survey instrument. This information will be used to recreate green grades.
  • Removal and storage of existing sod. Delete storage if new sod used.
  • Removal and disposal of existing green mix.
  • Installation of new drainage pipe, if needed.
  • Purchase and installation of new green mix
  • Installation of new or previously used sod.

The cost items include:

  • Survey and staking
  • Sod removal
  • Machine and labor costs to excavate and replace green mix
  • Irrigation impacts
  • Purchase of green mix
  • Sod purchase, replacement and installation.

A recent project, done by others, cost $1,500,000 including greenside bunker work. This 18-hole private course had push up greens before the project. They installed 18 new USGA specification greens.

Additional information:

Golf green construction

 

Abstract: A private golf course successfully renovated a golf green a few weeks before a big tournament.

A  private golf club scheduled a prestigious golf tournament in late-August. In late-July, one golf green failed, and everyone knew why. The green was rebuilt a few years before, and a soil supplier had delivered a load of  green mixture loaded with silty sand. The bad green mix created an unacceptable putting surface.The golf course superintendent tried to save the green, but a wet spring doomed the putting surface.

The club had to rebuild the green. In the middle of the summer. With a tournament scheduled in four weeks. A golf course contractor got the call, and I went along to assist. The criteria included the following:

*Remove the existing sod

*Remove the existing green mix

*Duplicate the green contours

*Install new green mix (that had been tested many times to insure USGA compliance)

*Install new sod

*Make it look like it never happened

The morning of the radical surgery, the golf contractor walked a large excavator out to the green site. I’ll never forget watching the machine walk across the golf green of a perfectly maintained golf course. We established control points and elevations to recreate the contours, knowing that the golf course architect would “float out” the final green contours.

Skilled golf course laborers shoveled out green mix from the edge and along the subgrade green floor (the bottom of the green mix as it meets the drainage layer). The green “core out” went well, and the contractor carefully added new green mix to the cavity. Plenty of plywood protected the work zone and collar. The golf architect went from a commuter jet, to a taxi, to a sand bunker machine, finalizing the green contours as the sun set on day two of the project.

The club had two choices on green sod: purchase new sod or use the sod from a large practice green located near the clubhouse. They chose the practice green because it had a mixture of native bentgrass, poa annua, and modern bentgrass; this was the same mixture on the other seventeen greens.

The golf contractor directed his expert sod crew to cut, roll, and transport the sod to the rebuilt green. He marked each roll with a chalk number to insure that the sod installation would be in sequence, not in a random pattern that would not look correct.

The sod installation began on a foggy morning. After we rolled the green surface, the superintendent added soil amendments.  A very skilled sod technician placed each roll of sod.  This individual had previously hand-laid twenty-five other golf greens. After gently placing each strip, he checked for edge alignment. He put his eyes two inches from the seam, and he nudged the edge with his fingers. After a final look, he called for another piece. This process was like watching paint dry. They completed the sodding in nine hours.

The following morning, the sod technician refused to use a plate compactor directly on the newly-laid sod. The sod was wet, so he operated the compactor on a piece of plywood (2′ x 4′-easier to handle). The project completed, the sod crew then installed  modern bentgrass on the practice green.

A few months later, I visited the golf course superintendent. He showed me a letter from the tournament chairman. The golfers loved the course and all the golf greens. They never knew about the green rebuild.

Additional information:

Partial green rebuilds

Golf green construction scope

 

Summary: Partial green rebuilds replace only a portion of a golf green. The management problems caused by two different subsoils should be considered in relation to the cost to rebuild the entire green.

Well-intentioned superintendents try to save money on partial golf green rebuilds. They want to fix an unusual contour, or add some square footage to increase cupping area. The membership loves the idea, but they are shocked by the cost of green mix: processed sand, soil, compost soil that is installed 14″ deep on the green sub-grade.

To lower construction costs, the superintendent chops the most expensive item. The tee mix detail is modified to include only the area under the green rebuild. The existing tee mix remains untouched under the undisturbed part of the green. The old mix is full of thatch, with an outdated soil probably consisting of heavy, black soil or silty sand.

The construction budget will be reduced, but the reconstruction will cause a maintenance problem for the superintendent. Two different mixes create two different management requirements for one green.
I tell my clients to spend the extra money for a complete green mix replacement. This is a great time to remove all the old mix, install drainage piping if eeded, and install new USGA spec green mix.

The existing grades can be copied with a skilled total-station survey technician. The existing sod can be numbered with chalk and re-installed in the same location as before (allow for some shrinkage). And the superintendent will have a uniform area of golf green mix to maintain, without any any complications. It will be cheaper in the long run.

More information:

Golf green construction

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