Abstract: Tee root zone mix installation involves careful planning and execution to limit subsurface drainage impacts while insuring even compaction.

I’ve seen a few contractors ruin subsurface grading and drainage piping by jamming tee rootzone mix without any concern for tee subgrades and piping. They try to increase production by doing the following:

  • Driving a truck or trailer over the tee subgrade (the surface under the tee mix). Good construction methods  incorporate the tee surface slope into the subgrade because this allows a true mirror image of the tee top slope while insuring positive  subsurface water flow. A tire track or two will disrupt this sheet flow and crunch the drainage pipes. Note: we always install subsurface pipes under tee mix.
  • Plowing out the tee mix with a bulldozer without any compaction technique.

We use these methods to install mix:

  • Establish subgrade and finish grade stakes on the four tee corners (assuming you want a square tee). Calculate the amount of tee mix needed and transport this volume  to the edge of the new tee. Stack the mix in a big pile on the edge of the tee. Don’t drive a truck or trailer over the tee edge. When the pile is complete, plow out a few inch lift of tee mix over the subgrade floor.
  • Plow out another lift ( a lift is an even spread of soil i.e. a six inch lift) or two to establish design depth. This process creates even compaction-the dozer or excavator tracks do a nice job with this.
  • Run a few strings connecting the four corners, and add or subtract mix as needed.

[si-contact-form form "1" ]

 

Abstract: Golf greens with heavy soils usually have drainage problems that complicate turf management. Installation of drainage pipe in existing greens is an effective but expensive option.

I grew up on a golf course with poorly drained greens. After a heavy rain, high iron shots usually landed with a muffled thwack. Golf courses can improve subsurface drainage with the following procedures.

Flat Pipe: Several manufacturers offer flat drainage pipe in rolls. The pipe includes an 8” wide by 3” high HDPE corridor that looks like crushed conventional pipe. The corridor is covered with a geofabric mesh.

The flat pipe is installed wide side down on the green subgrade, not in a trench. After determining existing subgrade slopes, drainage lines are marked on the golf green. Sod is removed and numbered with chalk to insure that it is replaced in the exact location.

Next, green mix is removed down to the subgrade level. I recommend removal of all the green mix in the green core during this process, but some remove only green mix on the trench line. Complete green mix removal is expensive, but trench-only excavation may cause problems with dissimilar compaction.

The flat pipe is connected to a 4” smile drain at the low point of the green collar. The smile drain exits away from the green complex.

Fat pipe is more expensive than conventional pipe. Connecting fittings are more expensive than conventional round fittings.

Round pipe: Conventional double wall perforated HDPE pipe is used in many green renovation projects. Installed in a herringbone pattern, the pipe is placed in the green floor.  After centering the pipe in a one-foot excavation, the trench is backfilled with 3/8” pea stone.

Removing all the green mix permits accurate slope survey insuring positive draining. Many modify the green mix during this process.

Slit drains: Some superintendents install slit drains in existing greens. After removing and numbering the sod, 2” single wall perforated pipe with a geofabric envelope is installed in a 12” trench. A small trenched can do the work. Line the trench with plywood to limit green damage. The pipe is backfilled with new green mix blended with a higher percentage of sand.

I’ve seen drastic drainage improvements with this method. Skilled crews reinstall sod making trench lines invisible. Some experience trench line discoloration caused by the use of sandy green mix in the trenches.

 

Summary: Many golf courses can’t afford premium materials and elaborate management teams. A golf course in Massachusetts first developed conditioning goals. After eliminating expensive details, a scheme using native materials and a few skilled golf course personnel created a successful, limited budget, golf course.

I’ve built golf courses for owners with limited budgets who want modest golf course conditions. They don’t want slick greens,  shaved tees and bentgrass fairways. They want a playable golf course that doesn’t require intensive grooming. This post will discuss one project in Massachusetts.

After site plan review and routing, a clearing contractor began work. The owner hired a professional forester to manage the tree clearing; a good investment because he identified valuable trees for harvest, reducing the clearing costs.

The owner wanted to hire a site contractor to perform bulk earthmoving. Usually done to save money,I’ve seen this fail on other projects. Site developers can’t create golf course features.  The finished project will look like a parking lot. The change orders will inflate the construction budget.

After persuasion, the owner hired a skilled golf course shaper for all golf course earthworks and construction. Having one golf course shaper permitted logical work sequencing without the conflicts created by two companies with different earthmoving philosophies.

The shaper used a D-8 to perform major earthworks procedures. His comprehension of  final golf course grades created sensible stockpile locations, making cuts and fills easier. Many golf projects suffer delays caused by poor stockpile locating.

The Owner wanted to retain stumps located in front of tee boxes. A cost saving suggestion, he relented after I explained that leaving stumps in front of a tee will save money, but they will decompose in a few years creating a safety hazard.

Grubbing, or removal of tree roots and wood waste, produced a clean topsoil ready for stockpiling. We grubbed the entire golf course playing surface knowing that the remaining woodwaste will complicate the fine grading process.

We removed about a foot of topsoil with the D-8, pushing it into locations not requiring cuts and fills. We didn’t screen any fairway or rough topsoil. After topsoil return, we removed surface stones and stray roots with a mechanical rake.

The cuts and fill were done with the D-8. The golf course shaper is a fine operator, and he created golf course shapes without water pockets. We eliminated loading and trucking costs by limiting cuts and fills to bulldozer pushes. Creative use of existing site topography limited earthmoving.

He roughed out the tees and greens with the D-8. The shaper planned his earthworks well. He shaped final tee, green, and bunker shapes with a small bulldozer and an excavator.

He built tees with native topsoil saving the expense of purchasing, rehandling, and installing custom blended tee mix. We installed fifty feet of drain tile in each tee. It cost about one-hundred dollars; cheap insurance from drainage problems.  We screened the tee-top topsoil to remove rocks because we didn’t want golfers breaking wooden golf tees. We laser-graded the tee top, another important construction detail.

We plated bunkers with with screened topsoil. We were fortunate to find cheap, locally available bunker sand. Intensive compaction during construction and loaming insured that the seeded surfaces wouldn’t wash out. We added bunker drainage; this is another inexpensive detail that insures immediate play after heavy rain.

Green construction included standard herring bone drainage tile with a pea-stone backfill. We manufactured our own green mix with on-site loam mixed with sand excavated from a pond location. The ratio of 70% sand and 30% topsoil performs well.

An irrigation vendor designed the irrigation system without charge.  His in-house designer created a sensible system on a site plan provided by the owner. We purchased all  irrigation components from his company. The irrigation vendor assisted during the installation process.

We seeded the tee tops with low-cut bluegrass. The bunkers faces and tee surrounds were seeded with a bluegrass and fescue mix. We added a small quantity of annual rye for quick germination.

The Penncross greens provide durability to this public golf course. This course will never see extreme putting speeds.

We built the golf course for half the cost of a typical project. Abundant on-site materials created the opportunity to manufacture tee and green mixes that saved money. Lab testing insured agronomic viability.

The owner hired a grow-in superintendent with the following job description: ” You’ll work seven days a week with rainy days off.” The grow-in went well, and after a few months, the course opened for limited play. The course will never host the U.S. Open and that’s how the owner and his customers want it.

 

Summary: A description of a typical golf green reconstruction in Massachusetts.

I’ve had a few inquiries about the scope and cost of green reconstructions in New England.

The scope involves:

  • Collection of survey data with a total station survey instrument. This information will be used to recreate green grades.
  • Removal and storage of existing sod. Delete storage if new sod used.
  • Removal and disposal of existing green mix.
  • Installation of new drainage pipe, if needed.
  • Purchase and installation of new green mix
  • Installation of new or previously used sod.

The cost items include:

  • Survey and staking
  • Sod removal
  • Machine and labor costs to excavate and replace green mix
  • Irrigation impacts
  • Purchase of green mix
  • Sod purchase, replacement and installation.

A recent project, done by others, cost $1,500,000 including greenside bunker work. This 18-hole private course had push up greens before the project. They installed 18 new USGA specification greens.

Additional information:

Golf green construction

 

Abstract: A private golf course successfully renovated a golf green a few weeks before a big tournament.

A  private golf club scheduled a prestigious golf tournament in late-August. In late-July, one golf green failed, and everyone knew why. The green was rebuilt a few years before, and a soil supplier had delivered a load of  green mixture loaded with silty sand. The bad green mix created an unacceptable putting surface.The golf course superintendent tried to save the green, but a wet spring doomed the putting surface.

The club had to rebuild the green. In the middle of the summer. With a tournament scheduled in four weeks. A golf course contractor got the call, and I went along to assist. The criteria included the following:

*Remove the existing sod

*Remove the existing green mix

*Duplicate the green contours

*Install new green mix (that had been tested many times to insure USGA compliance)

*Install new sod

*Make it look like it never happened

The morning of the radical surgery, the golf contractor walked a large excavator out to the green site. I’ll never forget watching the machine walk across the golf green of a perfectly maintained golf course. We established control points and elevations to recreate the contours, knowing that the golf course architect would “float out” the final green contours.

Skilled golf course laborers shoveled out green mix from the edge and along the subgrade green floor (the bottom of the green mix as it meets the drainage layer). The green “core out” went well, and the contractor carefully added new green mix to the cavity. Plenty of plywood protected the work zone and collar. The golf architect went from a commuter jet, to a taxi, to a sand bunker machine, finalizing the green contours as the sun set on day two of the project.

The club had two choices on green sod: purchase new sod or use the sod from a large practice green located near the clubhouse. They chose the practice green because it had a mixture of native bentgrass, poa annua, and modern bentgrass; this was the same mixture on the other seventeen greens.

The golf contractor directed his expert sod crew to cut, roll, and transport the sod to the rebuilt green. He marked each roll with a chalk number to insure that the sod installation would be in sequence, not in a random pattern that would not look correct.

The sod installation began on a foggy morning. After we rolled the green surface, the superintendent added soil amendments.  A very skilled sod technician placed each roll of sod.  This individual had previously hand-laid twenty-five other golf greens. After gently placing each strip, he checked for edge alignment. He put his eyes two inches from the seam, and he nudged the edge with his fingers. After a final look, he called for another piece. This process was like watching paint dry. They completed the sodding in nine hours.

The following morning, the sod technician refused to use a plate compactor directly on the newly-laid sod. The sod was wet, so he operated the compactor on a piece of plywood (2′ x 4′-easier to handle). The project completed, the sod crew then installed  modern bentgrass on the practice green.

A few months later, I visited the golf course superintendent. He showed me a letter from the tournament chairman. The golfers loved the course and all the golf greens. They never knew about the green rebuild.

Additional information:

Partial green rebuilds

Golf green construction scope

 

Abstract: Settled areas on golf courses create water pockets and dangerous conditions for distracted golfers. Here’s a few methods to fix these problems.

Golf fairway depression is not a psychiatric disorder. It’s not caused by a chronic inability to nail a three-metal. Golf course depressions are turfed areas that are several inches or more below the surrounding grade. These depressed areas can be hundreds of feet long. They create depression in golf course superintendents or golfers.

Settled areas occur when subgrade material under golf course turf decomposes or relocates. This void is filled with soil from above the void.

The primary cause of settled areas is the decay of organic fill. It’s created by improper golf course construction. Golf course contractors are known for creative disposal of organic debris. In the past, environmental regulations didn’t specify where stumps, sod, and other organic debris could be buried. Off-site disposal costs are expensive, so many golf contractors buried organic materials under golf fairways.

The worse case of organic decay I’ve seen was under a top-tier golf course in the Northeast. A not-very-experienced golf course builder constructed the course in 1967. Faced with a huge volume of stumps and wood-waste, he buried this debris wherever he could, usually when the golf architect wasn’t looking. He chose the location of a golf green as a dump site. Gradually, the golf green settled and this began a yearly ritual whereby the golf super removed the green sod. After installing a few shovels of green mixture, he returned the sod.

We were asked to fix the problem. While doing a bunker renovation on this course, I asked a golf course shaper to view the settled green. He took one look and said, “I’ve got the cure.”

He moved his large excavator to the edge of the green (on plywood so no damage occurred). We marked out an area 20’ by 20’ on the putting surface, and he swung the big bucket around. Much to the horror of several members lounging on rocking chairs, he dug down about ten feet and removed three huge stumps. He eventually removed three truckloads of organic waste, concrete, and assorted other junk. We filled the void with clean gravel fill, added a 14” layer of greens mix, and installed new sod. The green is in play today and everyone has forgotten about the settled area.

Deep freezes in the Northeast can relocate large rocks creating settled areas. The rocks that cause these depressions usually can be removed and the void filled. Large rocks or ledge require localized filling of voids.

I wrote the following specification for a golf course with thirty large settled areas located in fairway and rough areas. The contractor buried  wood-waste in fairway and rough areas, and these areas settled a few feet. Someof the settled areas are 100 feet long and 50 feet wide. The settled areas include decomposed organic material, or compost, and solid wood waste (stumps). I proposed to mix the compost with sand, creating a stable fill material. The course has a cheap supply of drainage sand nearby, other fill can be used. The solid fill will be removed and transported to an off-site organic waste facility.

  • Stub all irrigation within work zone. Use a large excavator (Cat 312 excavator) to open up the settled area.  Use plywood as needed. Go wide on the excavation to include some bordering areas. Mix and ompact the decayed material with the excavator bucket. If possible,  compact the fill with an excavator mounted vibratory plate compactor.

You’ll have a final grade 1-2 feet or more below final grade after mixing. Apply a  geogrid fabric, or HDPE neting, on top of the compacted fill. This product come in rolls and it provides an integral connection to the fill. Install a layer of geogrid  on top of the subgrade material,  add 6″ of 3/4″ stone, then sandy fill to grade. Install topsoil 6″ over grade to allow for any settling and seed/sod. Add a few mounds and golf forms so the fill doesn’t look like a burial pit.

Golf course depression can be cured. You don’t need Prozac or Welbutrin. The right fix will increase your golf course playability.

More information:

Golf course fairway leveling

 

Summary: Partial green rebuilds replace only a portion of a golf green. The management problems caused by two different subsoils should be considered in relation to the cost to rebuild the entire green.

Well-intentioned superintendents try to save money on partial golf green rebuilds. They want to fix an unusual contour, or add some square footage to increase cupping area. The membership loves the idea, but they are shocked by the cost of green mix: processed sand, soil, compost soil that is installed 14″ deep on the green sub-grade.

To lower construction costs, the superintendent chops the most expensive item. The tee mix detail is modified to include only the area under the green rebuild. The existing tee mix remains untouched under the undisturbed part of the green. The old mix is full of thatch, with an outdated soil probably consisting of heavy, black soil or silty sand.

The construction budget will be reduced, but the reconstruction will cause a maintenance problem for the superintendent. Two different mixes create two different management requirements for one green.
I tell my clients to spend the extra money for a complete green mix replacement. This is a great time to remove all the old mix, install drainage piping if eeded, and install new USGA spec green mix.

The existing grades can be copied with a skilled total-station survey technician. The existing sod can be numbered with chalk and re-installed in the same location as before (allow for some shrinkage). And the superintendent will have a uniform area of golf green mix to maintain, without any any complications. It will be cheaper in the long run.

More information:

Golf green construction

© 2011 Richardgolf.com Suffusion theme by Sayontan Sinha